Wadi rum , Glory FA

Well, it has been a while since I wrote, and that is probably thanks to (or maybe no thanks to) my Facebook page  which I update weekly.

So… I have lots of updates to do, and indeed, a lot has happened in the past two months.

 

Since I came back from my road trip to Spain, I started training and searching for new goals for 2013.
I wanted it to be something that will take me beyond my personal best, and help me break through my current limitations.
It came to me this year that what drives me the most, is climbing outdoors, and putting up new routes. Thus, since October, I was focused on training and bolting.
 For the training part, I was fortunate to meet Dani Belisha, who helped me build an original training régime, very different from what I was used to, that kept me motivated though winter.
And as for the climbing part, I was finally able to finish my long-time wadi rum project, a route called “Glory”, that was waiting for me on the south face of Jabel um ishrin
I saw the line two years ago while approaching through the goat gully to Rakabat canyon.
The main bolting crew consisted of Alon Malachi and me, but many
friends helped along including Natan Oren and Sason.
The first four pitches were bolted by Alon and me in 2010, and then in December 2012 we came back  for a three days blitz, hoping to bolt the remaining pitch and maybe to try and  climb the whole route.
Here is a short video from our first visit.
The line is not too big in wadi rum scale, but it’s a beautiful strong red sandstone face, with delicate features and micro holds. For me it was the perfect line, and during my two years away from it, I found myself often thinking about it.
In the first day, I rappelled down the route, trying to remember the holds and sequences through the hard pitches. Then, I tried to climb the last un-bolted pitch, just to figure out where I would like to place the bolts.
scoping the line
photo: Sason nisim
On the second day I went there again, this time by myself, to work the moves on the route.
 It was a very good experience, to be out there on my own, on a desert tower, working the moves by myself, all quiet around.
Soloing with griri nice technic
Later that day Alon and Sason arrived to help me bolt the last pitch
and take some photos.
What worried me about “Glory” was that since the holds were very tiny, I feared they would be impossible to  grab on a hot day.  And since the wall is south facing, it would be in the sun for most of the day, thus, leaving only three hours to try and climb it before the sun
hits the wall.
Alon at work
setting to climb
second pitch
The other problem was that I had only one day left  to try and red
point the route, and haven’t even figured out the moves yet……
On the last day we woke up early, and I had a big group of , supporters joining me on the route which was cool.
I only had a few hours to figure out the moves, and to try and climb the whole five pitches.
second pitch
The first two pitches went smoothly, and then I reached the  crux pitch. I fell on the first try, figured out the moves and got back to the belay.
  As I got there, I saw the sun coming out… and I thought that it was over…  when suddenly clouds appeared out of nowhere, blocking the sun, and laying shade over the route.
I decided to rappel down the pitch to try again, and this time I
succeeded.
 on the crux pitch with my support team
eli and me at the belay of the fifth pitch
The next pitch again took me two tries to do, and the last one went
easy, unexpectedly I found myself on the top of the climb.
Well, one more goal accomplished for this year, and I hope that if someday, someone will go to climb “Glory”, he will enjoy it as much as I did.
I would love to get feedback.
(all climbing photos @sason nisim )
forth pitch
red point!!-yes
Glory topo
(grades are just suggestion)

 

Comments

comments

One thought on “Wadi rum , Glory FA”

  1. Hi Olaf

    we would like to thank u for perfect made line with awesome protection and belays. Nice alternativ to another classic lines in Wadi Rum.
    Me and my climbing partner Jozef Kristoffy had a nice time on this Monday. We sent the route OS team what was a really nice suprise for us. We think it is more 8a and 7c what of course doesnt change the beauty and quality of climb at all.
    So thank you for all your effort.
    Hopefully you are looking still for some challanges in Wadi Rum if so we made new line on NE Domes of Jebel Rum. It is called Fatal Attraction 8a+. It is more trand and we left topo in Rest house and some first info is here http://james.sk/articles.asp?portal_id=1&pageid=1&id_dependency=9577&akcia=1 cause we are in Izrael now.
    Maybe u will send some feedback about the line to Jozef on jozef@kristoffy.sk one day.
    We believe you are the right guy to send this|
    take care Martin

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