טיפוס צוקים מקצועי | פיזיותרפיסט | מאמן טיפוס

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My Aim for this trip was to explore as much rock as possible, and to find that one line that will do both – push my limits and be inspiring in the same time.

I found it to be a very hard task, and I couldn’t find that one line out there that answers both of my desires.

That is why I decided to leave “Santa Linya” and “Oliana" region, and go climb more at south of

Catalonia in the Mega climbing Mecca – Siurana.

Siurana is a small village on top the mountain deep in the region of Sierra de Monsant.

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It’s a huge climbing area with more than 1000 routes.

Just below Siurana there is the town Cornudella De Montsant, which is my home for now.

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In the past years I always avoided Siurana because the climbing here is notoriously known for being very technically on small holds and crimps (which I don't like).

The rock angle vary between dead vertical to slightly overhanging. Siurana is defiantly not my style and it put a spot light on my weakness, but I decided to give it a go. It's all about leaving the comfort zone isn't it?

For the first week I was getting used to the place and style of climbing, It is a beautiful place and Cornudella is a sweet little town with a nice community of climbers both local and long-term foreigners, so I felt right at home pretty fast.

After Exploring the sectors of Siurana  the sector that draw my attention the most, was sector El Pati, home of the  known route La Rambla 9a+ but except “La Rambla”,  the wall hold many other classics like: La Reina Mora 8c+/9a, Kale Broka 8b+ and many more.

A few days in to climbing in El Pati I had a lot of luck to meet a fellow Black Diamond Athlete and Awesome climber – Sonnie Trotter with his wife Lydia and cute little Tatum.

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Sonnie putting his tight shoes for some of the smallest foot holds I ever seen. Sector El Pati

 

Climbing with Sonnie has been a lot of fun, I knew his climbing abilities for long time, but meeting him in person and having the chance to learn from him is a great experience and I feel very fortunate because he is a brilliant and strong climber but also a really great guy.

We teamed up for few days and went climbing mostly in Siurana but also made a few trips the to Margalef  for trying the king line  “Era Vella” .This route is so  amazing: steep, 50 meter with continuous climbing and no stops, the route was bolted by Chris Sharma and is considered a mega classic.

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Me on "Era Vella"(9a), AMAZING! @Neil Hart photo

 

We have  also been climbing onsight in beautiful Sector “Raco de Misa” at crag called “Monsant”

Which situated high above Cornudella with stunning views of Monsanto Valley.

 

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״Raco de Misa"

 

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Sonnie cruising through the pockets of an 8b+, in "Raco" left side.

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Daila Ojeda on "Falconeti" (8b+), Raco De Misa

 

 

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Lydia and Tatum "chilling" at Monsant

 

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Me flashing "Hidrofobia" (8a), Monsant

 

This past week I decided to invest more time in routes here in Siurana, and I think Finally I can say I have a project.

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Finally a Project- El Pati sector, Siurana @Neil Hart

 

I believe that soon I will have more great and exciting updates from Siurana!

See you soon on my next update.

Ofer

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